Sofia - Layers of History

Many European cities can boast a long history since the beginning of human settlements, with different rulers and cultures all leaving their mark in one way or another. In a region like the Balkans (see posts on other countries of the region here, here, here, and here), where those in power changed at a rather high frequency, it is very evident in the architecture, historical sites, and monuments which accumulated in the course of history.

This is very much evident in Bulgaria, where one can find traces of the Thracian, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman influences, layered with medieval Bulgarian kingdoms and Soviet-era communism, virtually around every corner. Take the above Church of Saint George in Sofia, for example (located in the courtyard between Hotel Balkan and the Presidency). The first layers go back to a 4th century Roman bath, then it became a church inside the walls of Serdica (the historical Roman city that was located in today's Sofia). There are frescos inside that go back to the 10th century, were covered up during the Ottoman empire, when the building served as a mosque, before they were uncovered again in the 20th century. And surrounding the area are Soviet-style buildings including the presidency building. One single courtyard, many layers of history.

It's one of the characteristics which endeared the city to us instantly: history is integrated into modern life, it's tangible and a living part of the city - not closed off behind a barricade or glass screen. As you explore the city, you may also stumble upon ancient cobbled streets from the Roman era in metro stations, where modern commuters walk over stones laid down thousands of years ago.

Built on all these layers of history, Sofia has a very grounded, relaxed feel to it today. The people here have seen a lot of change over the millennia, so whatever may be happening today, there is a general vibe that this too shall pass. With pretty boulevards, parks and squares, a mix of different types of architecture (including the brutalist National Palace of Culture [NDK]) and a lot of street art sprinkled on top, strolling through Sofia is a relaxing experience.

Obviously, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral with its golden domes is a particular architectural highlight - the largest cathedral in the Balkans, and by volume one of the largest churches in the world. The dimly lit inside with the high ceilings and numerous candles is impressive and worth a visit.

Outside the cathedral, street vendors were trying to sell all kinds of Christian paraphernalia spread out on camping tables, in addition to various WW2 items like Wehrmacht helmets and knives with swastikas on them, a somewhat peculiar mix.

If you are a bit of a history nerd, Sofia offers endless opportunities to dive into it, from both ancient and more modern times. I had a stroll through the National Museum of Military History, where tanks, jets, and other vehicles are lined up in the area surrounding the museum. The tanks featured both German and Soviet WW2 models, since Bulgaria first joined the Axis in 1941 and occupied territories in Yugoslavia and Greece, but switched sides in 1944, declaring war on Germany following the Soviet invasion and a pro-Soviet coup. To its credit, despite enacting anti-Jewish laws while on the Axis side, Bulgarian authorities halted deportations of its own Jewish population due to public protest, leading to a high survival rate (though Jews in territories occupied by Bulgaria faced deportation). Another fascinating glimpse of the eventful history of the country.

While we had some excellent Balkan food in the city, and there are plenty of places to pick from (try Izbata Tavern, for example), my shout-out would have to go to an Italian place: Olio D'Oliva had some of the best pizza I've ever had, and some very decent wine to go with it. Nightlife-wise, we were surprised by the sheer number of cocktail bars, of which we could only try a fraction, but for a nice glass to see out the evening, a recommendation would be the Gin House, which was very laid back and offered some tasty drinks indeed.

As always, walking tours with local guides are recommended, as is people watching from cafés, hunting for street art and watching live performances by artists around the National Academy of Art.

All in all, if you want to explore other places in Bulgaria, too, I would say three days should suffice for a solid first impression of the city. It's pleasant, it's interesting, and very affordable, so as a city a great destination for a long weekend.