It's still 2020, the year in which most of us have gotten to know our own apartments a lot better. Since I don't have a sourdough kit to spend my lockdown time, I have picked some more of the clearly most pleasant places on Earth. So following Part I, here is, with mathematical inevitability, Part II of the series. Once again, completely subjective, in no particular geographical or chronological order, a kaleidoscope with pieces from around the world.
Iceland - The hot spring of the Landmannalaugar campsite
(Landmannalaugar Hiking Trail)
As I was looking through the folder I realized I did not take a picture of the actual hot spring, as I was too busy enjoying it at that time, but maybe that's an even better proof point to show just how pleasant the bath in the hot spring really was. The campsite at Landmannalaugar marked the end of a trip on the Laugavegur hiking trail. It is regarded as one of the most beautiful hiking trails in the world, and rightly so: on our way we were time and time again blown away by the scenery. The higher parts can be rather snowy, but it is all in all perfectly manageable when you are reasonably fit. We often felt like the Fellowship of the Ring, as we walked through Iceland's rugged beauty, a couple of colorful backpacks in the middle of the this unique landscape, which feels like a younger, wilder planet, more vibrant and alive than in all other countries I have seen so far. Bubbling mud and smoke coming from small craters, glaciers, deep canyons, powerful waterfalls, gentle hills and high mountains, wild rivers and black lava fields - Iceland has it all.
Now we all know from experience how good that first meal is when you haven't eaten in a while and are REALLY hungry, or that first bathroom break after a long car ride. When we arrived at the campsite, a few days of hiking lay behind us. During those days we had the occasional cold water rinse, but certainly no warm bath to relax our aching backs. The campsite not only had simple beds - already a big step up from the nights spent on a camping mat in a tent at freezing temperatures - but a steaming lake fed by a hot spring, accessible via a wooden path. Once you entered the lake you could "regulate" the temperature by getting closer to the volcanic rock from which the hot water was flowing. This already awesome moment was further enhanced by a couple of beers which one of us had bought in the nearby mountain mall, a repurposed olive-colored bus that had been turned into a mini market. A cold drink and the first hot bath after a long hike - simply divine.
Georgia - A Wooden Chair in Gergeti Trinity Church
The mountain town of Kazbegi lies in the North of Georgia, just about 12km from the border to Russia. It's a mountainous region and it took us a long bus ride to get there from Georgia's capital Tbilisi, as the road conditions were far from ideal. It was the last stop of our trip through the Caucasus, and the scenery was spectacular. One of the best views over the valley and the surrounding mountains can be enjoyed from Gergeti Trinity Church, which towers a hill outside the town at 2,200m (500m above Kazbegi). Built in the 14th century, it also offers a offers a fantastic view on Mount Kazbek (5,047m). If you are familiar with Greek mythology, it is the mountain to which the Titan Prometheus was chained as punishment for teaching mankind how to make fire.
The way up was rather steep and exhausting due to the almost knee-high snow, through which every step had to be earned.
Once we finally reached the top of the hill, I took a look around inside the church. Only a few murals adorn the stone walls, and the many gold-colored paintings give it an unmistakable Georgian Orthodox feel. The only other person inside was a monk who gave me a friendly nod when I entered. I took a seat on a wooden chair, which was standing next to a gas-powered radiator near a wall. I closed my eyes and leaned back against the wall with the char, listening to the sonorous sound of the radiator while I could feel the gentle heat slowly making its way through my jacket and my snow-covered shoes. I must have fallen asleep for a while, because I woke up as my head rolled forward, slightly disoriented for a second, but thoroughly warmed up. The monk, who had noticed the sudden motion, looked up from his book and gave me a calm smile before focusing his attention once more to the scripture in front of him.
Nowadays visitors can reach the church by taxi or bus on paved road, which was opened in 2018, and recent online reviews are unfortunately filled with complaints about the many tourists visiting the site. But maybe you can still enjoy the quiet peacefulness of that wooden chair in the morning or evening hours.
Norway - Ferry on Geiranger Fjord
Summer in the Norway can be confusing. It is disorienting in a temporal sense when the sun doesn't really set and you can't trust the light around you. To exemplify, the three photos below were taken sometime between 11pm and 1am:
We had picked a hiking trail starting from the town of Bjorli. The tiny town is about six hours north of Oslo by train - a gorgeous train ride leading through the richly colored scenery of Norway. I have to add that the summer of our trip was rather exceptional with constant sunshine and temperatures were higher in Norway than in Italy during the time of our stay. The hike took us along calm glacial lakes, wild rivers, and across a number of mountains, and as wild camping is allowed in Norway, we were able to sleep right next to the most stunning views.
Norway is rightly famous for its fjords and Geiranger Fjord is simply spectacular. We waited at the waterfront until we saw the ferry approaching and boarded, a bit tired from the days of hiking, but happy about the chance to stretch our legs on the sun deck of the ship. We bought some drinks on board - which thanks to the Scandinavian prices for alcohol cost us the equivalent of a small car - but it was still worth it to kick back and let the landscape glide past.
The scenery made it seem like the color saturation and contrast levels of reality had been turned up. Rich blue, green, turquoise, and the sight of various waterfalls including the one depicted above which is kind of shaped like a bottle. All the while, seagulls were gliding through the air next to the ferry, as we followed the turns of the fjord, their occasional cries filling the air on top of of the background noise from the engine and the waterfalls. I am not sure how long the ferry ride took as time became pleasantly meaningless.
Comments